I would estimate the interview to be some ten to twelve thousand words in length and I thought it would be such a waste to let it sit gathering dust.

So with this in mind I have collated the interview into segments.

This is part one – part two may be read here.

I hope you enjoy it.

The Differences Between Breeding Budgerigars In Africa And The UK

By Fred Sherman (deceased)

I grew up on a farm in Rhodesia (now called Zimbabwe). My father was a tobacco farmer and also a breeder of livestock – he bred pedigree Jersey cows and pedigree Ayrshire cattle. He also kept African love birds and budgerigars and colony bred them. I suppose as a young boy I used to help him with these birds and that started my interest.

I was very interested in genetics – probably from school – and the very first book I bought on budgies was not how to feed, breed or keep them, but “Budgerigar Matings and Colour Expectations”. The second book I bought was “Genetics for Budgerigar Breeders” and so my interest was more in the genetics. I saw in budgies a good opportunity to experiment with genetics and the principles of Mendelism. Consequently for many years I fooled around with colours. In fact I never bred Budgerigars in small boxes, I used to breed them in small flights, similar to Doug Sadler but not as elaborate. I was only interested in colours and in fact, I didn’t even know what a show budgie was.

I joined the Budgerigar Society in South Africa merely to get rings and this was known as the Central African Avicultural Society. I had no interest in exhibition birds and I never went to any meetings. In fact, as mentioned I grew up on a farm and while I was still at school I was a member of the club. So I had joined very young.

Coerced Into Show Birds

In the late sixties I moved to Salisbury which was then the capital of Rhodesia and I was coerced I think, into getting involved with show birds. I still had these pet types, and I got interested in showing birds. I think that was in 1968 or 1969 and so I started breeding for show purposes.

When I decided to go all out to do well as a breeder of exhibition budgerigars, I was then spending a lot of time in the United Kingdom. Those of you who remember history, it was at the time that sanctions were applied against Rhodesia and I was running around a lot trying to find products and selling things, so my business travels brought me to England. I realised if I wanted to improve my birds I would have to buy birds in England and strangely enough the first pair of birds I bought were a pair of clearwings from Tom North.

I think it was the colour that interested me, and the fact that I was breeding colours. I saw a Whitewing mauve and I couldn’t believe there was anything like it could exist. So I bought a pair and took them back to Rhodesia and I bred with them and showed them. I did that for a few years and then I finally I met Brian Byles and he was good enough to let me have some birds which was the foundation of my budgerigars. I bought five birds from Brian, two of them were brothers, and the other two were related to the two brothers – they were all cocks.

I then went to South Africa and Dr Robertson, with whom I had got quite friendly. He put me on to a fellow by the name of John van Niekerk who had some birds from Alf Ormerod. I managed to get some hens from John Anitas. One hen was bred from an Ormerod pair which, having become friendly with Brian and looking at the records I discovered I had a hen that was related to one of the birds I had from Brian. This got my mind thinking about in-breeding and breeding closely together, and I took the decision then, having had a chat with my Dad, who was a stockman breeding cattle.

I decided with him that we would apply the in-breeding technique. I will be quite honest with you since then and that was 1972 or 1973, other than those five birds from Brian and a few hens from South Africa, I have had another cock bird from Brian, a Yellowface hen from Ernie Sigston, a Skyblue from Reg Crossman and some birds from Gerald Binks and those are the only birds I have bought in and all my birds today are totally inbred.

I Had No Option

I started with those five cocks and I have had a few from Gerald – maybe six – but that is it over all these years. I had to inbreed, I had no option and I found it interesting to listen to fanciers in the UK during my visits, who would say: “I don’t like to go too close” or “I wonder if it’s practical to line breed with budgies?”

My interpretation of in-breeding and line breeding I liken to what my Dad did with cattle. He had a foundation sire and he put lots of cows to that bull and he developed a strain. With birds of course that is difficult and I really doubt whether it is practical to line breed in a true sense with budgerigars, but I stand to be corrected. Also with line breeding you can go close, very often, the good thing with cattle is you have records that you work on, not like with budgies that somebody judges you have two judges and they don’t both see the bird alike, but with cattle there is the butter fat content of the milk, the quantity of the milk, all these things are recorded and they are all facts that you can work on.

I remember on the farm where we had a particularly good cow and the bull would be put back to the cows calves and granddaughters and so to say “Don’t go too close in line breeding”, don’t believe it. You go father to daughter, father to granddaughter in line breeding the same as you do with in-breeding. Really it is a little controversial, but that is the way I see it. So I have been inbreeding very closely. I do admit that some pairings are better than others. I don’t think it is anything to do with being close, or not being close. I was talking to Jeff Attwood and he was concerned about fertility when you inbreed, but I don’t believe I could have bred all those birds if fertility is a problem.

I can tell you a little story about a grey hen I bred. I have never seen such a big hen, she really was magnificent. It wasn’t a show bird, just a great big stock hen but one, almost from the time she moulted out, you think is going to be a problem. A big buff hen and I paired her to a cock – I don’t even remember how close it was related, and I have a habit of marking my eggs with a felt pen, because I think you get better results, you throw out the clear ones and make them keep laying, and on the first round the eighth eggs was fertile and she laid ten eggs in total. The eighth egg hatched – I was actually at the time breeding some Lacewings, so I put some fertile lacewing eggs with them, so I could identify the chicks, the chick finally hatched and survived, and fortunately for me it was a cock.

Paired To His Mother

The second round, the same thing, the eighth egg was fertile, she laid ten eggs, but that chick died, so I had one chick out of that hen which was a cock and I only had one option which was to pair the cock to his mother. She laid ten eggs, every egg was full. The second round she laid another ten eggs, and I put five of those eggs under the Yellowface Skyblue and she smashed them so there it was I got twenty full eggs out of that hen when I paired her back to her son. I don’t think that fertility is only a problem. I believe that our fertility problems are with the buff birds, the big ones.

If you take pet budgerigars and put father to daughter and inbreed them continually they would all be fertile. I have actually seen that happen where these fellows breed with these little birds, and they just keep on being fertile. I don’t think anybody can prove or disprove it, but I believe that fertility is a fault that you should breed out with inbreeding. I think with inbreeding you can only put together the good things, you can’t breed good budgies out of rubbish. So if you start with good stock and you inbreed and you weed out the bad features then you must weed out infertility as a bad feature, just like you weed out a bird that has some other physical feature you don’t like.

I was forced into inbreeding because I didn’t have access to birds. I would go on record as saying that the only way you can improve your stock is by in-breeding – unless you have a bit of money and access to good birds so that you can buy outcrosses. Now in a country like Rhodesia or South Africa, even if you have money, it doesn’t matter because you can’t find the birds, but if you are in a country like England where there are a lot of birds available, I believe you could be very successful outcrossing all the time if you can buy the right bird.

There was a very famous fancier in England who said he never inbred but also admitted that he bought birds. He said to me once if you see a good one, buy it, no matter what it costs, so if you have that policy you must breed good birds. If you are skilful, and he was very skilful, and you can buy a cock bird and pair it to a good hen, you will breed good birds, but if you are isolated and you haven’t got that ability there is no way you can improve your stock without in-breeding.

Breeding budgerigars this year reminded me of the racy days of the 1960s, when you put down a pair of birds and got 5 or 6 fertile eggs from each nest, and reared 6 or 8 from each cage over the two rounds.

In those days heads were the most important feature as it still is today.

For many years, our advertisement in the year book claimed the bold statement:

“Bred for Head, Winning with Type”

Type was important and you were advised not to breed buff to buff.

Fanciers of that era would be blown away by what is the norm on the show bench today.

2010

This last season, we started pairing birds the earliest ever, because there was so much scrapping in the flights particularly amongst the hens.

Five hens were chosen primarily for their fitness and in 2 cases their poor breeding results in 2009.

They were put in the breeding cages on the 20th July with open nest boxes. 3 days later the cocks were introduced. Four of these 5 hens went to nest and laid.

The Earthquake

On the 26th August, we paired up another 6 pairs and the first of these laid on the 4th September, the day of the earthquake.

On the night of the big “rock and roll”, my wife got up at 4 a.m. and woke me to look at the sky.

It was a brilliant clear blue with a bright quarter moon lighting our back lawn.

Half an hour later all hell broke loose as we leapt out of bed. The noise of breaking glass and falling crockery was horrendous.

When that subsided, we could hear the birds in a frenzy of uncontrolled flying just crashing madly about in the breeding cages and flights.

I turned to Fay and said:

“That is the end of our budgie hobby”

We had 6 show cages in a line at the back of a shelf 50 mm wider than the cages and at shoulder height.

They fell to the ground, but only received minor damage to the cages although the fronts were badly damaged and needed straightening.

The mess in our lounge and kitchen was a mix of liquids, glass, vases, china, and pantry solids.

No power for 24 hours.

The street corner was cordoned off as a power pole was down. We checked on our neighbours and went back to bed.

Daylight Breaks

Come daylight we were up and taking stock.

4 retail shopping areas within a radius of 2-3 km, had severe damage and in one case the whole complex has been bulldozed.

At about 8 a.m. I went out to the birds.

The first 4 pair had young and the hens were in the nest.

The results were:

• 23 eggs
• 14 fertile
• 12 young
• 1 dead in shell
• …and a feather-duster

There was very little chirping.

I turned the radio on, gave them their daily silver beet and the birds soon returned to song. I think they were glad to see me!

Post Earthquake

Between the 4th and 12th of September the second six pairings started to lay.

The results were:

• 35 eggs
• 32 fertile
• 16 young
• 10 dead in shell
• 6 died

By early October the first 4 pairs were laying their second round, one cock with a new mate.

The results were:

• 26 eggs
• 24 fertile
• 14 young
• 5 dead in shell
• 1 died
• …and a nest of 4 scuttled

Then early in November the six pair of August pairings started laying again and other replacement pairs for cages that produced nothing and a replacement for a lovely large sky hen that must be barren.

The results were:

• 33 eggs
• 32 fertile
• 18 young
• 14 dead in shell

A high percentage of dead in shell we attribute to the December aftershocks culminating in the big one on Boxing Day (26th December). During December we had another 4 pairs laying.

The results were:

• 28 eggs
• 24 fertile
• 18 young
• 6 dead in shell

2010

Total results for 2010:

• 145 eggs
• 126 fertile
• 78 young
• 36 dead in shell
• …and 12 deaths

5 nests have had 7 or 8 eggs each and 2 other nests 9.

We have had extremely good fertility this season.

The high percentage of dead in shell we attribute to the aftershocks – 36 dead in shell and another 12 young dying is a very high percentage (33%).

On one occasion I was out in the garden beyond the flights, facing the aviary and actually saw the aviary house area lift as the quake rolled through and under me, quite spectacular!

I went into the breeding room immediately. Not a sound from them. The hens with chicks were out of the nests, but those with eggs were still in the nest boxes.

How Did This Happen?

So, what was happening at night when some of the worst aftershocks took place?

What has contributed to the high percentage (87%) of fertile eggs?

What have we done differently?

Some Possible Theories…

• Firstly

  Our matings also coincided with the majority of hatchings occurring just on or after full moon (i.e. pairing about 3 days before full moon).

  This is what pigeon breeders, who, after extensive studies, found gave the best results.

  In the case of pigeons, it was a question of speed and reduced their losses with their racing stock.

• Secondly

  Although we had used the Massey Pigeon Complementary Feeding Oil spasmodically last breeding season, this season we started using it early in July.

  Although directions were given on the bottle for rearing young pigeons through to racing pigeons, I decided that, as pigeons eat whole grain, putting oil on seed was sufficient for them to get the oil – but not so for budgerigars.

  We decided to allow the oil to soak through the husk to the kernel where it would be more likely eaten by our birds.

  With this in mind I already had an aluminium container 250 mm high and 150 mm diameter with a lid. It holds approximately 3.5 litres of seed when full – ideal for the flight birds and sufficient for the 15 pairs in the breeding cages.

  We poured in 40 mm of plain canary seed and adding a teaspoon of oil on top in a circle and repeated until we had 4 layers of oil plus a cover of seed over the last one.

  Approximately 3 litres of canary seed in total.

  We left this for 24 hours to get high concentration of oil into some of the seed.

  We then stirred it with a flat paddle to mix it thoroughly and left it for another 2 days.

  This treated seed was darker than untreated seed and could be seen to have absorbed the oil. To use this oiled seed we mixed 1 part treated to 4 parts untreated seed mixture. This meant that theoretically 1 in every 5 seeds the birds eat is rich in oil.

  Those of you who have used it will know it is not tacky like most oils and penetrates readily if allowed to stand. We keep a lid on it and it does not appear to deteriorate over the time it takes to be used. The manufacturers say to keep the bottle refrigerated.

• Thirdly

  It is widely accepted that trees and bushes coming to the end of their life will often produce an abundance of flower or fruit in a last ditch effort for the species to survive.

  Could this be the case with our budgies with over 4,000 aftershocks?

  We don’t think so, because other Christchurch breeders would also be having a good season.

  Unfortunately that is not the case and I have not heard of anyone having anything like the fertility we have experienced this year.

Perhaps none of these three reasons have anything to do with the pleasing results we had this breeding season and it is the result of a number of coincidences just chipping in to give us a season to be thankful for.

Postscript

On 22nd February 2011 at one in the afternoon, a third earthquake (of 6.3 magnitude) hits Christchurch, New Zealand.

The depth is a “shallow” 5 km and it is centred near Lyttelton.

The surrounding rock structure of the hills sends shock waves equivalent to an estimated 1.25 times the strength of the September 4th quake – hence the destruction of the entire city centre!

1950s

In those days, nest box designs were the “leftovers” from pre-second world war thinking. They were designed to be placed inside a cage and hooked on to the rear facing cage wall with the nest hole facing the light. Other “leftovers” were like minature desks, where the parents entered via a hole on the top and squeezed down vertically. Watching them emerge was always good for a smile and a laugh, as can be imagined.

My great friend Jim Moffat used these and even up to his passing in the last decade, still had a few pairs using this box design. Old habits die hard!

It was not long before I realised that breeders were, like myself, having many problems, particularly when trying to retrieve the box for inspection, unhooking it, then seeing the hen, or the pair, dashing around and trying not to drop the box with one hand. Needless to say, at best, the eggs were scattered all over the place and many times damaged. The final irritation was when the fancier entered his birdroom, all the hens would come off the eggs to have a look at him. Lots of faces would appear to see the newcomer. This could not continue, as far as I was concerned. So my thinking cap went on.

Nest Box Design Changes

With hindsight, it is easy to look at today’s designs and accept what we have, but back then we were stuck with what we had. I realised that a box had to have the following changes listed below, to avoid the above disasters, but with the added sound reasoning required which would suit the breeding birds, before such a change was made.

So I addressed the following:

• 1 – Overcome the danger of dropping the box.
• 2 – Overcome the problem of massive disturbance and smashed eggs.
• 3 – Overcome the hens leaving their eggs when you entered the aviary.
• 4 – Overcome unhooking the box with the adult birds inside.
• 5 – Overcome the chicks dropping out too soon and either dying from cold before you got home or similarly overnight.

I started with items three and four! Build a test nesting box which could be placed on the outside of the cage, ideally on the front with the entrance hole facing away from the light. This, I hoped, would work.

In the inside I had the usual concave base. This box was up for a full season and when empty a new pair introduced. The result? A massive improvement with more chicks in that box than anywhere else!

I had 20 cages at that time. Still thinking about it. I could see that hooking on this box was stupid. Fine for taking over to the bench to inspect, but the parents were difficult to dislodge and if you held your hand under the box, it was cold. I wanted it warm! In fact doubly warm and that gave me another idea.

Why not have a double box, one inside the other with the outer box bolted to the cage? So, I scrapped that first test and re-designed again. The result? Even better! Steadiness with the parents, box solid with no movement on the cage front and with a round perch sticking out under the nest hole protruding into the cage for perching.

The last was also a developing problem as I found that a round perch became slippery with use, so a square perch, as with the major perches in all cages, was fitted. Finally, I had forgotten about the chicks dropping out too early. The new test box was the same as previously in depth from the base of the entrance hole to the concave. Back to the drawing board and try an 8 inch (20 cm) drop. Certainly better and by this time various manufacturers were taking notice and marketing, “The Binks Type Double Nest Box”.

That snowballed and a few years later everyone had them. Then the Binks name vanished – hardly surprising and understandable, but the hobby was breeding bigger birds and was the better for it.

Darker is Better

In 2000, a visit to Jim Laurie in Scotland made me think yet again. He was a breeder who had very thick walled wooden boxes some 9 inches (23 cm) high outside measurement but only a 5 inch (13 cm) square concave in the base. Breeding was fantastic as he had coupled the feeding to my diet and was breeding better results than I was. He was, because of the thickness of the box walls, spraying the boxes every night very heavily. Naturally I was very interested. Could my 8 inch (20 cm) boxes be still too shallow? Time to test again! This time up to 11 inch (28 cm) height (outside measurement), but more of that later.

Jim Laurie had a great knack with budgerigars, as most Scottish fanciers will attest to. With his deep boxes and with five chicks in most of them, they were crammed into the boxes – vertically when the parents were in there! And they were big chicks that you could hardly get your hands round. However, they could not reach the nest hole easily until nearly four and a half weeks of age and that had the benefit of holding back the hens from laying too soon and having those eggs scattered and soiled in the process.

My only reservation was the 5 inch (14 cm) square base. I felt it could be enlarged to the standard 8 inch (20cm) x 5inch (14 cm) size, made 11 inches (28 cm) deep and a small inside stepping block under the nest hole glued in – mainly to keep the eggs restricted into the resultant smaller area in the concave. Remember, the darker the box inside, the better the hens sit and incubate. That leads to more chicks on the perch at 6 weeks of age.

I did this and now have 56 boxes with all these factors incorportated. The result? I breed budgerigars reasonably easily given full attention to other well understood essential factors. Boxes today are a far reach from the very early fanciers’ techniques. They started with a coconut shell!

Note: This article is more fully discussed in “The Challenge” book which is to be recommended as an essential addition to your library. Other successful designs are also discussed.

When I wrote “The Challenge”, I omitted a guide that first appeared in my first book – “Best In Show”, published in 1974.

So, I am now pleased to correct the situation with this handy reference guide for breeders, enabling them to know exactly when to assist the struggling chick and particularly when not to intervene!

As we know, opening too early can reveal the chick which still has not absorbed the yolk into its body and it is pale and weak. The outcome is death! Opening too late and the chick for various reasons also dies, unless helped a fraction earlier. Close observation and timing are therefore vital assets to your husbandry.

Remember, if it is the first chick to hatch, leave the empty shell in situ and move the tiny chick to a pair you know feeds small hatchlings really well to increase its chances of survival. Also bear in mind that a pale chick may not make much squeaking noise.

It is the bright red chicks you want. A red chick will be fed as the hen will feed it easily, but if the chick does not call because it is exhausted and weak it may not be fed and will die.

Fanciers frequently blame a hen for “crushing” tiny chicks. Occasionally this is true especially when young hens are in use and have no idea what to do when a chick hatches. However, the most common reason is that non red chicks have not demanded to be fed and consequently look “flattened”.

At my stud at “Tanglewood”, I managed to lay my hands on an incubator. This is used entirely for two purposes, but strangely not for hatching eggs!

It contains large plastic eggs, from Germany in my case, plus a surgical mask that is there to warm up “cold” eggs that a hen has deserted, or, kicked to one side in the nest and also for chicks that have similarly been left to go cold.

Deserted chicks may often look dead and white, but it is surprising after a few hours how some can recover using an incubator. Remember it is vital to attempt to save every chick for your end of year tally and some of those could be Best In Show possible contenders.

• First Aid Kit
• Sick Bird: Step by Step
• Emergency First Aid
• Crop Needle Technique
• ER & Qwik Gel Formula
• ER & Qwik Gel Preparation

First Aid Kit

Your budgerigar first aid kit should ideally contain:

• Crop Needle: 2.5cm long straight 16 G
• Syringes: 3mls
• Stainless steel bowl
• Kettle
• Emergency rescue Formula (e.g. ER formula)
• Quik Gel
• Amoxicillin antibiotic
• Sulfa-trimethoprim antibiotic
• Heated Hospital Cage – Thermostatically controlled 25-30 degrees Celsius, perch, food and water containers, millet spray, paper on floor
• Dr. Marshall’s Contact numbers: Tel: Sydney Australia 0298716036 – Email: www.robmarshall@birdhealthcom.au

Sick Bird: Step by Step

• Step One

  Isolate the sick bird(s) to a heated cage, collect droppings for veterinary testing and treat with a crop needle with ER/Quik Gel.

• Step Two

  “Guestimate” medicine based upon symptoms.

• Step Three

  Give Quik Gel into the drinking water of the rest of the flock and clean the cages/flights with an appropriate disinfectant whilst the problem is being diagnosed.

• Step Four

  Submit droppings collected prior to giving medicines for testing and seek advice from a bird veterinarian.

• Step Five

  View the illness as a “family weakness” when sick or dead birds are related. It may be necessary to remove such families from a breeding plan. Identify the illness as an environmental issue when sick birds are unrelated.

• Step Six

  Introduce a disease prevention plan following a final diagnosis to protect the rest of the flock from future infections.

Emergency First Aid

• The first response to failing health should be to isolate any sick bird(s) to a hospital cage. The hospital cage should be pre-heated to 25-30 degrees Celsius, possess a perch, fresh seed and have Quik Gel in the drinking water. The floor should be lined with clean paper so that the droppings can be clearly viewed.

   
  Any bird that fails to perch in the hospital cage must immediately receive heated ER/Quik Gel – a specially prepared heated liquefied formula administered – by a crop needle.

  This treatment is the starting point for recovery irrespective of the disease involved, as in many cases, a full recovery occurs simply by crop needle feeding a sick bird and keeping it warm.

  For further information, please reference: Chapter 19 pages 240-247: “The Budgerigar” (by Dr Rob Marshall)

Crop Needle Technique

• Crop needle feeding ER formula and Quik Gel – an emergency rescue mixture – has multiple life saving actions. It re-establishes normal body temperature, elevates blood glucose concentrations and reverses any dehydration, all of which stimulate kidney function, circulation and appetite. Its action is to re-establish vital functions so that appetite returns, allowing the body to self heal. With a return of appetite, recovery becomes far more likely.

   
  For non-infectious conditions and birds with low-grade secondary infections, the administration of ER formula, Quik Gel and hospital care often brings about a cure within 3 days.

  For further information, please reference: Chapter 19 pages 242-243: “The Budgerigar” (figure 19a).

ER & Qwik Gel Formula

• A heated emergency rescue food administered by crop needle represents the single most important act for saving the lives of sick budgerigars.

   
  Most sick birds can be saved if they receive ER/Qwik Gel formula before they have completely stopped eating.

  ER stands for Emergency Rescue formula and in combination with Qwik Gel saves the lives of sick birds whilst a diagnosis is being confirmed.

  This heated concoction provides an ailing bird with a rapidly absorbed source of energy, protein, vitamins, and minerals that restores core body temperature, fluid balance and energy levels.

ER & Qwik Gel Preparation

• Place a teaspoon of ER powder in a cup then whilst adding 10ml of hot water (35C) in small amounts mix it continuously until a smooth cream-like solution is created. Maintain the heat of this liquid formula by using a hot water bath. Then mix one drop of Qwik Gel into the formula and immediately draw up 3mls into a warmed syringe and remove any air bubbles. Connect the syringe to a 5cm 16 guage crop needle and test formula passes freely through the crop needle – then administer to the sick bird.

   
  Antibiotics are added into the hand rearing mix according to veterinary instructions – See Chapter 19 pages 242-243: “The Budgerigar” (figure 19b). A 10ml solution is enough to treat 3 birds. Repeat this process 2-3 times each day until the sick birds are active and eating again.

  For crop and gizzard blockages continue this treatment twice daily for 3 days.

  For egg binding add 1ml liquid calcium to this mixture and continue this treatment twice daily for 3 days.

  For further information, please reference: Chapter 19 pages 242-243: “The Budgerigar” (figure 19b).

Dr Rob’s Products

To order the products mentioned in this article, please use the links on the Dr Robert Marshall page.

Quik Gel is a high energy emergency gel also containing vitamins and disinfecting agents. It is used to accelerate recovery from illness and temporarily prevent an infection from worsening while waiting for the results of culture tests. Very sick birds may need crop needle feeding.

Quik Gel is is also used during critical times when an immediate and sustained source of energy is required to maintain a healthy flock. Critical times when the entire flock would benefit from the administration of Quik Gel in the drinking water include: Cold, Hot or Wet Spells, Airsac mites, Egg Binding, Nestling Rejections, Air in the Crop, Outbreak of Disease, Weaning Youngsters and following a course of antibiotics.

Ingredients

Complex polysaccharides, vitamins A,D,E,B complex & organic acid

Actions

By providing an immediate and sustained energy source, Quik Gel:

• Rejuvenates tired adult birds during the breeding season
• Protects weak youngsters during the weaning period and when entering the young bird flights
• Prevents diseases associated with the stress of cold, hot or wet weather
• Accelerates recovery following illness by providing easily digested high-energy nutrients swiftly and efficiently to damaged organs and other body tissues
• Enhances the overall health of an energy-depleted flock during and following disease outbreaks (e.g. mite infestations, coccidiosis etc.)
• Improves male mating success and egg fertility during the critical stages of the breeding cycle
• Reduces egg binding when cold spells and other stress factors cause tired breeding hens
• Used as part of an Emergency First Aid Treatment for sick individual birds
• Quik Gel is palatable and readily accepted by budgerigars

Dose

• Mix 2mls (ask for 2ml spoon) into 500ml of drinking water
• 1 drop mixed into 2-10ml of heated ER formula via crop needle

Indications

• In The Flights

• For Breeding Cabinets

• For Weaning Cage

• In Drinking Water

• Emergency First Aid Treatment

• Via Crop Needle

• Preparations Of Quik Gel & ER Formula

In The Flights

Quik Gel is mixed at a dose of 1ml into 500ml of drinking water for three consecutive days during a stress period, outbreak of disease and following a course of antibiotics.

Critical times when the entire flock would benefit from the administration of Quik Gel in the drinking water include:

• Cold & Heat Stress

  Administer Quik Gel for 2 days to maintain energy levels when temperatures fall below 10°C or rise above 35C

• Wet Spells

  Quik Gel is mixed with Megamix (10mls per litre) to help maintain health by establishing acidic conditions in the crop that help prevent stress and environment-related infections such as E.coli and coccidiosis from becoming established

• Megabacteria Infections

  Quik Gel is mixed with Megamix (10mls per litre) for 5 days when Megabacteria has been diagnosed in a flock to help maintain body heat and appetite of in-contact birds. Sick birds should receive a crop needle treatment

• Quill mites or itching birds

  Quik Gel is administered for 2 days following lice/mite treatment to rejuvenate an infested flock

• Quietness

  A drop in noise levels may be related to inclement weather or the onset of illness. A 2 day trial with Quik Gel may be used to determine whether the lack of noise is related to energy depletion or a disease process

• Recovery from illness

  Quik Gel administered for 2-5 days is used to promote a rapid recovery following antibiotic treatment

• Emergency First Aid Formula

  Quik Gel may also be administered by crop needle as part of an Emergency First Aid Formula or added to the drinking water to aid the recovery of individual birds or breeding pairs that are sick, tired, injured or following antibiotic treatments

For Breeding Cabinets

Dose: 2ml Quik Gel thoroughly into 500ml of drinking water, 500gm dry seed or soft food mix. Or 1 drop into 100mls of drinking water.

• As an immediate and sustained source of Energy

  Quik Gel is helpful in improving breeding outcomes during the breeding season, as energy requirements are nine times more than during a non-breeding period.

  To ensure your breeding birds receive a plentiful supply of energy, it is recommended that Quik Gel be incorporated into the breeding programme as follows: Quik Gel is added to seed, soft food mix or drinking water for 7 days after pairing occurs. Quik Gel remains fresh for two days after which time a fresh batch must be provided. The water containers must be thoroughly cleaned and disinfected of sludge at this time.

  Energy is the most important nutritional factor in allowing exhibition budgerigars to feed their young and the best means to express the true genetic potential of their offspring. Critical times when breeding pairs would benefit from the administration of Quik Gel in the drinking water include:

• During the first week in the breeding cabinet

  Male budgerigars become easily tired following their energetic courtship activities. Quik Gel can be given each second day during this stressful courtship period to improve mating success and increase fertility. When provided at this time it also supports the energy needs of a hen during egg production and helps prevent sudden death syndrome and egg binding in breeding hens.

• Throughout Breeding

  Energy requirements are significantly higher during the breeding season when parents are feeding their young. Quik Gel provides breeding pairs with a plentiful supply of energy so that they remain vital throughout the entire breeding season. This ensures the babies are fed well and do no experience any physical setbacks.

• At the beginning of each breeding cycle

  Quik Gel aids the cock during courtship and prepares the hen for the energy consuming process of egg-laying. It is again provided when the first youngster becomes fully feathered when the hen is preparing to lay her next clutch of eggs.

• For later Breeding Rounds

  Quik Gel is also particularly useful for one day a week during the second and third round when energy levels of parents begin to wane.

• At Conclusion of Breeding

  Quik Gel should be administered for 3 days as breeding pairs are moved from the breeding cabinet to the holding cage (prior to their return to the aviary) in order to prevent their deaths when entering the flights.

• During Cold Spells

  Quik Gel is used as a rich source of energy and vitamins when cold temperatures may interrupt breeding and result in a high degree off infertile and dead in shell eggs.

• For Air in the Crop

  Quik Gel should be provided when air is observed in a baby’s crop. This finding indicates the energy levels of the parents are depleted.

For Weaning Cage

• Quik Gel should be given in the drinking water to support the weaning process for 2-5 days when the youngsters are moved from their parents across into the weaning cage. The high-energy content of Quik Gel stimulates appetite, which promotes a rapid weaning process. Its stress relieving and disinfectant properties protect the youngsters from disease.

In Drinking Water

• Rejuvenates tired breeding pairs and birds recovering from illness. An increased activity will be visible by the afternoon following Quik Gel treatment.
• Restores energy levels and normal gut flora following a course of antibiotics. Quik Gel mixed into the drinking water with Megamix (10mls/litre) for 2 days restores energy levels and promotes a more rapid return to activity following an illness and antibiotic treatment.
• Stimulates appetite and initiates recovery following any physical stress. For example, with cold stress, Quik Gel mixed into the drinking water with Megamix (10mls/litre) is used to maintain health when temperatures fall below 10°C. Under these circumstances, Quik Gel / Megamix cocktail is given fresh for the first day in the drinking water then topped up the following day.

Emergency First Aid Treatment

• In emergency situations, providing heat and administering Quik Gel directly by mouth or via crop needle mixed with ER formula should save most birds. An emergency is recognised when a budgerigar remains listless or is found fluffed up on the floor.

   
  Quik Gel can be administered in a number of ways. When birds are critically ill, it is best given with ER Formula via a crop needle (see below). Feeding using a crop needle is a process that must be learnt. Once this skill has been developed and when administered at the first signs of illness many sick birds can be saved. If a crop needle is unavailable, Quik Gel may also be given by mouth directly from a syringe.

Via Crop Needle

• Quik Gel is given by crop needle (gauge 16; 2inch long crop needle is best) together with ER formula and any medicines as part of an emergency treatment for individual budgerigars for the following conditions: Serious life threatening diseases caused by coccidiosis, round worm infestations, Megabacteria, streptococcal infections, dehydration, sour crop or blocked gizzards.

  As very sick birds are unable to produce their own body heat, an additional source of heat such as a hot water bottle or heat lamp must also be provided.

  As the bird recovers and is no longer in a critical state, it is important to determine the exact cause of illness and begin with an appropriate treatment.

  Once the sick bird is eating and drinking by itself, Quik Gel should continue to be given in the drinking water for 5 days to complete a full recovery.

Preparations Of Quik-gel & ER Formula

• Place a teaspoon of ER Powder in a cup then whilst adding 10ml of hot water (35C) in small amounts mix it continuously until a smooth cream-like solution is created. Maintain the heat of this liquid formula by using a hot water bath.

   
  Then mix one drop of Quik Gel into the formula and immediately draw up 3mls into a crop needle and warmed syringe then administer to the sick bird. This 10ml solution is enough to treat 3 birds.

  Repeat this process 2-3 x each day until the sick birds are active and again eating.

  For crop and gizzard blockages continue this treatment twice daily for 3 days.

  For egg binding add 1ml Hical to this mixture and continue this treatment twice daily for 3 days.

Dr Rob’s Products

To order the products mentioned in this article, please use the links on the Dr Robert Marshall page.

I take a laid back attitude preferring to look at the end of season total rather than getting depressed about losses over which I have no control. By the same token I am obsessed with good husbandry throughout and certainly this has a direct bearing on the end results.

Feeding

This is where it all begins. There is a familiar adage that “You only get out, what you put in”. So very true, but, as I have written before, this can be overdone or conversely underdone – both with disastrous results.

I do not propose to dwell on this, suffice to say that if you have a copy of my publication “The Challenge”, then I urge you to really spend time on reading the two most important chapters – both are on feeding. The chapters are pitched in lay terms so my advice is to read both above all the other “glossy popular chapters”. They are the basic key to success without which you cannot achieve success in the hobby and these chapters also contain examples of International diets that have proven themselves over years of trial and error.

Bad feeding and poor husbandry both combine to give a poor season. Remember that.

Starting The Season

There is no doubt that the start to any season is the most difficult. I can tell that the birds are ready to breed by looking at the behaviour of the hens as well as their condition. All my flights have the sexes mixed year round. This is because the current year stock learn their sexual habits very early. If you keep the big hens separate they just sit in the flights and get overweight with predictable poor results. Mix them and keep them active.

You will have gathered that I ignore the fixed ring issue date we have in the UK (1st January), which I have tried to alter for 20 years (to no avail) because of the climate changes that have affected the start up period dramatically. However, there is hope on the horizon as the Budgerigar Society Exhibition, which is our most important show, is now held annually in the last weekend of September, resulting in a 3 month gap before our rings arrive and our birds, as a generalisation, need to be paired immediately after the show.

Pairing

The larger the stud the less the losses, whatever they are, affect you. If you are in livestock you have to expect tragedies – especially during the breeding season.

My pairings are made in a strict procedure. I place four birds to a show cage, sexes separate, all down the full length of the birdroom three cages high. This puts all under slight stress and shows up the faults particularly with type and stance faults.

I also select each pair on the basis of ideal choice first and pedigree second. Never the other way round. I certainly never pair birds by selection from the flights. I want the show cages to reveal their true qualities if they have any. Not all do and that applies to every aviary!

Laying

I have, like many other breeders of top quality birds, found that, unlike the post second world war birds which laid in 7-10 days, the massive birds of today take longer in many cases. Indeed, 21 days is not uncommon before the first egg appears, especially with maiden hens.

I have also established that with modern feeding techniques one can pair such birds earlier than the advocated 10 months minimum age. I can often see hens at 8 months that are raring to breed – so up they go and are successful. The downside is that such hens are difficult to start feeding their young due to inexperience and relative age, but I will come to that later.

Remember, I, like many other breeders, have totally enclosed aviaries and no outside flights.

The First Clutches

I now assume you have nests in with eggs everywhere. Fertility is the big hurdle and the worrying time. Bad fertility and you can suffer.

Again, coming from long experience, this is caused by you and your feeding and your poor husbandry. You are the provider. This cautionary comment applies to very low fertility over 60 per cent of your pairings – at least.

Looking on the bright side, let us assume the reverse situation and all has been done that can be done and 60% of the stud is fertile – perhaps even 80%. You will never achieve much more and certainly I always have to carry out what I term a “Cabinet Re-Shuffle” a couple of times in the early stages of any season for a variety of small reasons.

Disturbance

I recently had an e-mailed video from an airline pilot (Liam McGuiness). He has fitted up a webcam on a nest box to watch the habits of a pair. It was highly noticeable that the cock is a real interference as eggs are hatching, treading all over the place and on the small chicks and on the top of the hen.

Cocks that tend to sit outside the box are much to be desired. McGuiness stated that:

“The cock does feed the chicks, one is a day old chick and the other a three day old.

The hen has to work hard to protect the chicks when her partner flies in. You can see her leaning into him as he tries to barge into her to get at the chicks. She tries to keep the chicks beneath her while he is treading everywhere. In his attempts to get close to her he wraps his wing around her while he bullies her into submitting into being fed.

He gets very frustrated and disturbs her far more frequently than is necessary. Sometimes he rushes into the box, climbs all over her and then rushes out again. Chicks can easily be crushed at any time through these disturbances.”

Transferring Eggs

Some advice – do not handle eggs unless absolutely necessary. Your hands possess germs on them all of the time. They are one of the most infectious parts of the human body and will pass germs on to the egg surfaces – these are porous and you then wonder why some eggs have been addled, or dead-in-shell has occurred just as hatching is starting.

If the transferring of a clutch is unavoidable, wash your hands in warm water first.

Then take full note of two areas.

1. Where the eggs are positioned in the clutch to one another. Careful examination with a laser torch will show that the earlier fertile eggs are located on the outside of the clutches where they are placed by the hen to allow more gaseous exchange of carbon dioxide and oxygen to take place. Moving those eggs to another nest, without thought, into the middle of the receiving nest, can result in the death of the embryos.
2. Before I move eggs I mark each with a felt pen dot on the top surface so that that are placed in the same correct rotational position in the new nest.

We have begun to start chasing for our chick target result at the end of the season.

Hatching

Starting with dead-in-shell as the negative possibility, that again is poor feeding coupled with perhaps the Australian dryness requiring regular damping down in your birdroom. However a dry atmosphere is only about 10% of the dead-in-shell problem, at most. The rest is diet input.

We can have irregular hatching – by which I mean some chicks arrive bright red in colour and full of strength to call for food. Others can just emerge, pale in colour but they are exhausted and do not call. A hen faced with this will just ignore them until they are flattened. Not her fault – in this case it is yours! There are occasions where you find an egg(s) just struggling to hatch which requires help by you to assist. There is a chart in “The Challenge” advising you when to intervene safely.

If your chicks are red and active and get full crops you have your diet correct. Make a note of every mortal item that you are giving and the methods you have used to achieve such success. You will need that list in later years. Be sure of that because you will inevitably forget something that had brought you to such a high pinnacle earlier. I know that from my earlier years.

So, the hens are feeding and they are being fed but in a nest of five or more there are problems arising. I personally like four chicks per-round-per-pair – so moving chicks to less occupied nests has to be done. I do not like to do this as the crop milk from the original parents is different to the fosters – but one has no choice.

Keep a close eye under a nest of four chicks that have one or two late bred day olds underneath them. Again they are red, perhaps fed well and survive under the weight of the bigger chicks. But you have to move them both to save them, and if you do not the larger chicks will eventually be the first to be fed anyway and your small ones will go backward.

Returning to other nests, you will see the chicks are becoming scrawny in appearance. This means the hen(s) have a nutritional factor (F) missing from their crop milk. Exactly which factor one doesn’t know, but as soon as you see it in the oldest chick, move all out elsewhere. I mark my records with (F) for future reference.

I do recall that Robert Manvell wrote me a letter years ago in which he said he found that if there were too many nests with scrawny chicks, the addition of vitamins within a syrup base, such as vitamin B12, if overdone, can give rise to this problem. I agree with that.

Changes

I have made changes to my nest boxes periodically but based around the box-within-a-box principle. Some seasons ago I felt that the shallow boxes, some 8 inches deep, were too shallow. The chicks would exit too early and the hens were laying their 2nd round too soon.

Chicks were having to be returned and eggs were thus scattered and lost. With the end target in mind, I made the boxes 11 inches deep and the problem was solved. The chicks cannot reach their exit until old enough and the hens delay their cycle. More eggs saved!

Conclusion

If you want the results, and remember you need a full nest of chicks from which to choose the two best and sell the rest, then you have to work for it.

The aviary has to have priority in your day and time given to it.

I trust some of these practices that I employ at my home in England prove an incentive as well as giving all readers some sound tips on reaching their annual target year-in-year-out.

Remember – write it down when you have it spot on.

Having spoken directly with him to get the accurate reason it turned out to have nothing to do with administering an emtryl based product to eliminate trichomonas infection as was being rumoured. It was a product used to stop vomiting which experienced fanciers are familiar with, but there was nothing wrong with the product if used correctly. It is a European product called Chevi-Col which also goes under another name Cabrol-Col.

33 breeding cages were in use at the time and the correct dosage applied, but due to circumstances it was given for 7 days and not 5 days. Daniel heard bizarre sounds coming from the breeding room and found several birds behaving as if they were severely handicapped for no reason. Several were already dead and very quickly a total of 18 dead cocks were the result. The result, because of over use and because the cocks are always drinking while the hens are in the boxes, was that their nervous systems were ruined and basically the birds were poisoned.

Apparently there is a UK Fancier, Neil Murray, who has experience of this product and across the hobby it now seems that using this product is considered very risky especially if some birds drink more than others and over a longer period than recommended. Daniel blames himself entirely for his own stupidity – easy with hindsight. Fanciers beware!

Aviary Maintenance – External

Let me take this year as an example. It is November. In the last 6 weeks I have been working to get the aviary “winterised”. A very cold one by UK standards is forecast. So, having a cedarwood exterior, it needs treating every three years without fail. That has resulted in it still being as good today as it was when I purchased it in 1971. It would be massively expensive to replace as it covers 1200 square feet (110 sq metres).

The window frames need constant attention (I hate painting!) and the roof needs to be checked for leaks. Virginia Water is heavily wooded so leaves are a constant problem, hence the gutters must be checked too. Elbow grease is essential. What all this is about is not having to attend to problems that could arise in very bad weather. Dealing with a leaky roof in wet conditions is not funny and the disturbance to the breeding pairs also has to be anticipated.

Aviary Maintenance – Internal

Moving inside, I am fortunate to have bought my cage units from Reinhard Molkentin back in 1988. They are made of a composition of a plastic nature (very heavy) with a aluminium framework. They never need painting (I like that) and just need washing to bring them back to new. They are in many aviaries in Germany, Jo Mannes’s aviary being but one example. Expensive, but in long term well worth it.

All electrics are checked, especially the heating systems and thermostats. I used to have tubular heating but this was far too expensive to run and inefficient as the air was not circulated well. These days I use (Dimplex) fan heaters which work very well provided you are attentive to de-dusting them out regularly.

Nest Boxes

Coming to nest boxes, of which there are currently 56 in use (and being double boxes with one inside the other it means 112 really have to be cleaned), I use “VIRKON® S” a great deal. All are finally dipped into this solution and allowed to dry off. This appears to contribute to a maximum of 5 or 6 minor French Moult birds only, from approximately 300 bred per annum. They are affected very little and if stripped from flights and tails at 4 weeks, then recover fully.

Incubator

Some time ago, I bought an incubator. I use it to keep oversize plastic eggs warm at the same temperature as real eggs. When the first egg is laid, in goes a plastic one. Use of false eggs has the following advantages:

• They prevent those strong day old chicks being crushed before you can get to them if they have not been fed. Note: Weak chicks because of poor management techniques will not survive anyway.
• They can stop a pair smashing their own eggs – they get fed up trying to break a plastic egg.
• They retain heat while in contact with eggs that have been left for too long thus saving the developing embryos.

Increasing Fertility

I am often asked what I do to prepare for increasing the fertility in my stud. Here are several thoughts for you.

• Make sure you have a round-the-year source of vitamins A & D – in moderation. Overdo it and you will be in trouble, as both are stored in the liver and not excreted.
• I use a powder product called Hormova. It again is present in the flights and cages all the time.
• A certain “X” factor which you can buy in specialist horse tack and feeding shops – but that is up to you to think out and track down. Sorry, but we all have our little secrets!
• Never give massive doses of antibiotics across the board with the exception of treating accurately against “yellow belly” in tiny chicks before breeding and the same again when breeding stops. This practice also improves fertility in my experience. I only treat a health condition which is preventative. If you start playing around with growth promotion then you risk ruining the whole stud – and it is banned anyway and rightly so.

Seed Mixtures

I now turn to the seed mixtures which we all use. I am after every chick I can get by every means possible. Seed that may have been harvested too early (and that applies to millets sometimes), is at risk of having micro fungi attached because of the dampness. Note: You can always test a bag of seed for ripeness by making a fist and plunging it down into the bag. If you meet resistance you know it is not fully ripened. Add any mites to the fungi, especially in millet sprays, and you have a recipe for loss of chicks. To kill off everything mentioned, use a super product from VETREPHARM (in Hampshire). This is put in the bottom of each bin before loading and fumes over 48 hours. The seed is unaffected and 100% safe to use.

Avian Flu

To conclude, a word about Avian Flu H5N1. Either keep the stock under cover or make certain that any indigenous wild visitors cannot excrete into the outside flights. As of November 2009, DEFRA has designated that the UK is free from any reports of Avian Flu. However fanciers should check the DEFRA website for any changes.