John Crooks, UK

Very nice photos.

I would say they have no fear of humans as the population density of that region ranges from 1 to 0 people per square km.

Regards,
Cameron Browne, Sydney, Australia

I met him in Australia and the UK and he was always full of encouragement.

I was gobsmacked when I read the above.

May he rest in peace.

Nigel Tonkin, Australia

I’m not a great expert on colour expectations, but I believe the answer is no. Unless your green cock bird that you say is split for ino is also split for blue as well.

I guess you won’t know the answer to that.

If it were the case, you would breed a percentage of albinos (white inos) and they would be hens.

My advice would be to try it and see……

Ian Fordham, UK

I have nothing but fond memories of Fred and he showed his determination right from the start to get to the top of his hobby.

I remember him bringing in birds from the UK when coming back from business trips, and he was always willing to share offspring.

He moved to the champion division very quickly.

I must correct Gerald in his description of Fred as “a fine South African” gentleman. Fred was a Rhodesian and proud of it.

I believe, if my memory is correct, that Fred was in the Rhodesian Forces contingent at the Queen’s Coronation in 1953.

I unfortunately lost touch with Fred when I moved to Australia in 1981.

Rest in peace Fred and my condolences to Allene.

Jim Buchanan, Australia

I really do like the Lutino and being disabled – and not having full function of my hands – means the Lutino is perfect for me – as I struggle when trying to despot a bird (no spots on a Lutino!).

I have a couple now, both hens, and a normal green cock who is split ino as he has produced one of the hens. The mother is a cinnamon green.

This article has answered a lot of questions I wanted to ask, so a very big thank you for an excellent article rich in information for a beginner.

I do have one question:

If I put a split ino green cock to a blue hen, could that pairing produce a white series ino?

Regards,
Gerwyn C Price, Berkshire, UK

Mark Nesbitt, Northern Ireland

They don’t even look attractive.

Just because it’s possible doesn’t mean it’s right.

Look at the criticism of the Kennel Club a few years ago – where changes (in what was thought of as desirable in features in particular breed standard) were exposed as causing causing animals physical disability and suffering.

I am though a mere pet budgie owner.

Nelliemoser, Scotland

Barrie Shutt, UK

Also even the ones made especially for birds should be placed 12-18 inches away from the birds perch and placed overhead and NOT directly pointing at a bird.

Regarding UVB, researchers have found that most birds benefit from it. Exposure to UVB allows birds to synthesize Vitamin D3 in their skin, or through a special process involving the preen gland. Vitamin D3 is essential for proper calcium metabolism. This is necessary for normal growth, maintenance of strong bones, and egg production.

Concerning UVA and “Visible Light” – birds have specialized retinas that enable them to see UVA. This helps them to recognize mates, locate food, and identify different species. Using lighting that emits UVA can help to curb feather picking and other destructive behaviors. Without UVA, birds are deprived of the full color spectrum they see in nature and are colorblind! UVA is necessary for the psychological health of your bird.

Just some food for thought!

I know many breeders who use the UVA lights made specially for birds and they’ve never had any issues with the birds going blind or any other issues. In the end, if the bulbs are not UVA and UVB they’re not going to do any good for the birds.

Kelli,
Indiana, USA