• You are a young school person who has little money, but your parents are fully supportive in all that you do.
• You are in full employment with a family, but need a sound hobby to relieve the pressures of the workplace – something different in fact.
• You are in full employment, but can see that retirement approaches or redundancy might loom at any stage.
• You have just retired and want a hobby that both you and your partner could enjoy together.

What is the first stage?

Firstly, the advice so that you do not waste hard earned money from whatever source.

This is to not do anything in the way of erecting a birdroom or buying budgerigars in the first year – you have much to learn and you learn from two sound, must have, up-to-date books and you have a lot of visits to make to aviaries owned by very well experienced fanciers.

This website advertises many breeders and the links, appropriate to your country, will open such doors to gain massive quantities of ideas and designs for your aviary that suit the birds first and then you – in that order!

The essential books are published on this website.

Stage #2

In most countries, but not all, there are National Societies – plus what are termed State or Area Societies and then the Local Societies near to you.

Your contacts with other breeders will have opened such doors. My advice is that you join the National Society immediately.

In addition to paper magazines that are supplied as part of your annual subscription, it is through these major societies that you get your budgerigar rings – which are called closed rings. These have your personal code number inscribed on each ring for the rest of the time you are in the hobby.

Stage #3

You are now a member!

In addition to the books mentioned, you may find there is a National Mixed Variety Publication – contact your paper shop as they will have details. A few mixed variety magazines are superb covering Budgerigars, Parrots, Foreign Finches and Canaries.

One such is the Australian publication “Australian Birdkeeper Magazine”. High quality, beautiful photography and whichever variety is your preference, there is something to learn within the pages on the other species.

As you gain experience, ask questions all the time. Many beginners feel they are being silly at a meeting of their chosen club, asking basic questions. Do not hold back – nobody minds especially any lecturers who feed off such questions and thrive on them.

Also never put anybody, who you might think is a top champion, on a pedestal. We are all in the same hobby, all involved and our doors are open to beginners and champions at all times. Just call up out of courtesy and make a time to visit and above all – enjoy the experience.

Stage #4

By the end of your first apprentice year, you will be bursting to erect an aviary and get going – but the wait will have been worth it, believe me.

Remember, it is no use spending on basic sheds unless you anticipate you will have to move home at some stage. Even then it is better to make a sectional birdroom that can be moved. Next, remember, however big you decide you will have your aviary, eventually you will want a bigger one. So allow for expansion.

We now come to Local Authority permission to build! However, before you do that, I strongly advise you to approach all your neighbours that border your property and ask their permission, or their approval, to erect your aviary. Ninety nine percent will give that if you explain clearly what the design is and that you are not putting up a chicken run affair. Once they have been approached and know what you are doing and have said “Go ahead”, they are then happy and thereafter will have great difficulty if they have a complaint. Noise can be controlled by a design that does not necessitate outside flights, but in hot countries this may be desirable.

You now approach the “Local Authority”. Be aware that staff in such organisations are not always sure of their own rules and will insist that you have to have Planning Permission and conform to Building Regulations. This author found out the hard way on one occasion.

What you need to realise is that if your aviary is not attached to your property you (probably) do not need Planning Permission, as it is “external to the uses of the dwelling house on freehold property”. Local Authority property is another matter.

You do however have to conform to the Building Regulations which are an easy matter to deal with. At your Local Authority Offices ask for sight of the document applicable to a structure for a hobby (in the UK it is called “The Town and Country Planning Act”). They will oblige with copies of that information for you to study and give you forms to complete. If you have a problem, go to another Local Authority and ask them for help – on the understanding that you are moving into the area they are responsible for. Then armed, go back to your Local Authority and submit what you now know beyond doubt. Obviously such rules will vary from country to country – but the basic principles apply.

Stage #5

With full approval and design decided, you can start building.

There are basic pitfalls – such as having too much light with oversize windows, so that in hot weather the birds suffer and do not breed well.

Aviaries should be about ten feet / three metres wide, minimum, all through. This allows for external nest boxes and seed store benches and yet allows space for you and visitors to be comfortable.

Make sure your aviary is on a very sound concrete base with a solid foundation underneath. Are you having water laid on as well as electricity? It is cheaper in the long run to do this at the start.

Consider skylights above the internal flight areas, but not in the breeding area as other indigenous birds can cause disturbance at the wrong times, plus budgerigars like to breed in shade.

If you can afford it, double glazing is also greatly beneficial and avoids the dreaded painting and rot replacement as with wooden frames. You might trace some second hand double glazing to save money. It is certianly worth the effort.

Stage #6

Fitting out is a pleasure. Keep your eyes open for anybody stopping their hobby, if money is tight. Their cages may suit you and you can get them at a low price. If cost is not a problem, this website has a list of reliable suppliers and these should be approached first.

Your initial early visits to aviaries will have told you what you require. Once complete and you have obtained all the seed and foodstuffs that you require, not forgetting a heated platform and antibiotics for the odd sick bird – you are ready to start buying your birds.

Just one last word. When buying what will be your Foundation Group to build your stud, use your eye for quality to the full that you have learned along the way. There are all sorts of great people in the hobby who treat you fairly but there are a few “rogues” (as there are in all walks of life) who will sell you poor or problem birds that have little or no use.

The test for any fancier is to travel, say, 250 miles or more and have the courage to walk away and go back home if they have any doubts at all. Then you are a true fancier. Treat everyone, in time, who comes to you when you are a champion, totally fairly and then you will have great credibility and respect from everyone.

Enjoy your new found hobby and remember your friends are more important than the birds – not the other way round!

GSB: Apart from an overall treatment in the first instance, if it has never been done before, you should not treat again unnecessarily.

The sensible action is to isolate ALL new arrivals in a separate room and treat them immediately before release into the main stud.

Your outside flight must also be covered on the roof to prevent any indigenous infected birds excreting into it and thus infecting your disease free stud.

There are countless examples of fanciers ignoring these basic rules and budgerigars being lost in good numbers

When buying a bird, what should I check before parting with my hard-earned money?

GSB: Firstly examine the bird closely. Is it tight in feather or loose feathered and huddled? Catch it and check for the following:

1. Is it clean round the vent area and with no stained feathers?
2. Is it full in the hand and has bright eyes?
3. Look for and feel for any cysts around the lower gut area and in particular examine the wing butts where cysts are easy to miss.
4. Feel the crop. Is it normal with some seed inside it or is it bloated – which raises a question about the bird’s digestive tract?

My aviary is completely enclosed. What should I do about the lack of direct sunshine with its vital vitamin D factor?

GSB: Vitamin D that is lost in this way should be replaced artificially via multivitamin solutions and / or cod liver oil bought from your pharmacy.

Should hens be taken to shows?

GSB: Hens are generally more easily stressed during transport and while being moved around inside the exhibition. I suggest that you take them to no more than two to three shows only and certainly not three day shows.

On arrival home from a show, give them every care and attention and allow them access to food and grit before extinguishing the lights should you arrive home late.

Do not overshow them and they will subsequently breed well.

I began breeding this marvellous Australian Grass Parakeet at the age of 12, immediately after the 2nd World War – 65 years ago!

I am still as fanatical today about breeding top quality exhibition budgerigars though I do not claim to be so obsessed to the exclusion of my family and golf – the latter modestly. Over the years, many hundreds of Australian and New Zealand fanciers have visited my home in Virginia Water and all have been welcomed.

With my administrative background, I was also privileged to have been the UK co-ordinator for the nine Australian shipments of some of the UK’s finest budgerigars to Melbourne, before a ban was instituted as a result of infected ostriches arriving from Canada at the Spotswood Quarantine Station in Melbourne. That ban has not been lifted for budgerigars, but I believe pigeons were permitted until the Avian Flu outbreak arose.

Luckily 4500 budgerigars did pass into the Australian hobby which has helped enormously with head quality improvements and many fine birds are to be seen these days on the Australian show benches.

The Attack Principle

The desire to breed super exhibition budgerigars is the ambition of every fancier in every country. I am well aware of the fact that the Australian show scene and its structure and administration is different to the UK. That aside, we all have the same aim as it is the finest birds on display that we wish to breed and own for the simple reason of pride in having achieved something that money cannot buy.

That said, there always comes a point where you have to “speculate to accumulate” and buy the essential outcrosses to avoid losing size as well as quality.

Sell ten birds and buy one has always been my philosophy.

The Early Years

By the early years, I mean the first ten – perhaps even longer. There is so much to learn from each breeding season, particularly establishing a feeding regime that really works well and breeds many budgerigars each season from the best birds you possess.

I cannot stress enough how important that is. Two consecutive bad seasons can destroy a stud. That is the danger we all face as it brings you to your knees and so many leave the hobby at that point. If it happens there is only one person to blame – you! This is the point when the strongest characters refuse to give in and “attack”.

In “The Challenge”, I have listed in depth many proven successful diets, including Australian diets, that have stood the test of time. Those diets should be unchanged in their entirety and not added to with something that “so and so” is feeding at your club. If you do then the stud as a whole is rocked and as budgerigars object to change, it will show adversely in the breeding cages later on.

Once you have your proven diet working well, may I suggest you write it down and place it on file because it is so easy to forget an item(s) from the daily routine – then trouble arrives and your memory for what has gone wrong will fail you.

Get the feeding right and you can progress to look elsewhere if another problem appears. Remember, you need to produce quantity as well as quality from a nest so that you can select the best two and sell the rest.

Establishing The Basics

Like a great house, your stud has to be built on very solid foundations. Your initial problem may be financial. If not then you may be lucky, but if you are financially strapped you may well be better off in the long term, so do not despair.

This is the way I began as a boy, but I learned the hard way and was the better for it. The hobby is filled with a cross section of characters. Happily most are honest and will help beginners in a constructive way, but a few are depressing.

I clearly recall my first attempt at buying from one of the top ten UK fanciers when I was fourteen years old. It was my first lesson. I travelled a long way by train to this “famous” fancier. He asked me before I had even seen any of his birds, how much I had to spend. I had saved all my pocket money and I said (this was 1948) I had £20.00. His reply was stunning to a beginner. He said “You won’t get much for that young man”.

My father, having taught me well about the world being full of good and bad people, prompted me to say: “No problem, but I am not interested in your birds” and I left immediately. He never forgot me and always came up to me at shows after that, obviously ashamed. A lesson learned regarding buying and selling and how to treat people decently and fairly.

By contrast, you can have the odd well off fancier who likes to enter the hobby with a bang. He knows little but thinks money will get him to the top. They rarely last the distance and every country will have such examples. They might win for a while but their lack of experience results in their quality dropping, with poor results, and out they go.

So be encouraged that if you have a small pocket, as I did then, you will make a better fancier if you attack at all times as best as you can. If you are patient and sensible, it is a valuable lesson not to spend anything for 12 months, but in that period visit all manner of studs and shows to get your “”eye for quality” well established.

You will also see all manner of aviary designs and that will give you a good idea for construction of your own aviary. Remember that an aviary has to be designed for what is the best for the birds, not necessarily for what is best for you.

Have You The “Eye”

This title means: have you learned exactly what is wanted in order to win at top level?

The next question, if you want to save a great deal of expense, is “if not, why not ?”. With long-standing experience let me tell you that top quality judges, and there are many of them, also breed top quality birds. By doing so, they keep up to date with new features that are difficult to achieve. They can see faults to the millimetre and that isn’t very much. If he / she cannot do so they are second grade judges and there are even more of those.

It is my contention that the top national show, in any country, should be judged by the former group at all times – as breeders have been striving all year to win and thus deserve no less a compliment. Officials just working through a list of “qualified” judges to please all the judges, irrespective of their individual ability, is an insult to every fancier and indeed any non-exhibitor looking around the show.

I digress, but I make the point to illustrate how essential it is to possess the eye for every detail.

How Width Of Face Appeared

From the 1950’s until the 1970’s, the majority of us were breeding very good birds – or so we thought!

Somewhere towards the end of that period, a few fanciers realised there were far better birds around that were streets ahead of the so called “Ideal Budgerigar” as depicted in drawings.

One fancier in particular, Ken Farmer, wanted to capture the look that the Norwich canaries possessed with their lateral feather over the head and eyes. Until that time, the UK breeders had all their birds with their head feathers growing from front to back over the head. So now the hunt was on for any birds that possessed what is now called “lateral directional feathering”.

By the 1980’s, the numbers of such birds had increased slightly. The late Harry Bryan was a breeder who would scour the country for birds with “width of face”, as well as not losing the quality features already established. Not easy.

In 2010, that feature has become somewhat more common, but almost every fancier that comes into any aviary is looking for width – and it is that feature that by its very nature is expensive to acquire.

In 2005 I named it “the buffalo effect”, which is a descriptive wording that has gone world wide as a result of “The Challenge” book. Everybody in the UK who arrives at my home wants “buffalos” but so do I – and it is a struggle to keep them!

Focusing The Super Bird In Your Mind

I will now assume you have progressed a little. So now focus on the finest bird you have ever seen – forget “The Ideal” as it is probably behind what is actually being bred, but it has helped as part of your apprenticeship.

Carry that image of the finest bird in your mind. It is vital as you are now going out to buy birds to build that bird yourself from hundreds of good birds that may be on offer. Even better, you may have the ability to see beyond the best birds ever seen, but such fanciers are rare. Exactly what financial level you enter the hobby is personal.

Buying The Foundations

Your two selected breeders for purchasing should have a common genetic denominator – so establish where their original stocks came from. This is important because otherwise you will be buying unrelated birds which all have hidden faults that emerge in droves. By comparison, super quality birds will suddenly appear from pairing related stock.

I also stress that you should get pedigrees immediately you purchase the new birds, so that you know exactly what you are doing over the coming years. My records go back to 1950 (believe it or not), but in practice one never goes back that far of course.

Another tip – when you go to buy, go alone. You are in a much stronger position to deal with your seller on a one to one basis and you will not get distracted from getting what you want, bearing in mind what I mentioned earlier. You also have much greater leverage in the process.

Starting The Breeding Season

It is a fact that South African, Australian and New Zealand fanciers have it far easier to breed budgerigars compared to those in the Northern hemisphere. This is due to the sun and far better light that is available in the south. Reinhard Molkentin in South Africa confirms this as he has bred in his own country (Germany) as well as in South Africa where he now lives. So you all have a big advantage.

So let me assume you have bought three cocks and four to six hens, as not all will be in condition to breed simultaneously. The cocks should have been selected on the basis that any one can be paired to any of the hens you have chosen.

Watch the hens closely, as it is the hens that have to be caught up as they rise up to a peak of “itching to breed” and are chewing branches at every opportunity. I prefer to place the hens in the breeding cages with the boxes open, so they get used to their new territorial area for 48 hours before the cocks are introduced. Then you get great fertility results. Your season has started.

Looking Ahead

Assume you have now bred say 16-24 chicks.

Remember to feed them as well as you did when they were still with their parents. So many fanciers drop off the vitamins and soft food intake and wonder why their birds are not big after 18 months growth. You should be able to have big birds, certainly if they are Normals, by the age of 10 months and then you will know that by 18 months you will have a massive handful later on.

You now have to select what to keep and what to sell. With the income, go back to the original sellers and buy just one super bird – far better than any of the first group. You then move this bird, a cock being the obvious choice, into the genetic pool you have started. Then in the following season get him paired to as many of the best hens available as is possible, while transferring the fertile eggs out to other less important nests.

Now the excitement starts as the quality being produced suddenly shoots up and in nest after nest some great chicks start appearing. Other fanciers now become aware of your stud and begin to come round and try to buy from you. A great time, but keep it going and refuse to sell what  you want for next season – bearing in mind you need one third cocks and two thirds hens. You are on the way to the top!

Conclusion

Never forget, that when you get serious setbacks, you are in livestock and they have a habit of losing their breath – permanently. That is the time to forget it and in 24 hours go back on “the Attack!”.

This glossary of terms is here to answer such questions.

If you have heard a term used that does not appear here, please contact us and we’ll add it to the list below.

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A beginner faces many problems. At shows, all he/she sees are rows and rows of birds. He/she can spot the winner of a class and those unplaced, but filling in the gap and knowing the reason the sixth bird beat the seventh is beyond him/her. He/she knows perhaps a little about nutrition and he/she has some idea that his/her children grow more quickly with a sound diet. He/she wants to get involved in the hobby, breed some birds and get the pleasure of the “hands on” feeling of being in charge of a real stud.

What is a Stud? A true stud is a group of inter-related livestock which all possess similar high quality features which are highly desirable to everyone. If these parameters do not exist then you possess a “collection” and no more.

Looking at Detail

My advice is to spend the first year looking around. In that year you will need to study birds and by that is meant close study, not a fleeting glance. Every bird possesses fine detail. Each one has a different feather density and pattern. They have differing lengths, widths and direction which all combine to create quality, or otherwise. Feathers can make or break the showbird or result in the stockbird, the latter possessing more faults than the former. Until you can foresee an Ideal Budgerigar, which is slightly ahead of its time, from every aspect and feature, then you will be breeding budgerigars which will soon be left behind in the pursuit of excellence.

The author is on record for spotting a critical measurement in quality birds that he had not seen in 25 years of practical breeding and showing. That said, nobody else had spotted it either. The point is that you think you are looking at show features, but often you can miss the obvious. Only experience can overcome these difficulties, with a near obsession for the hobby.

Initial Purchases

So Mr/Mrs Beginner you’ve done your opening homework. What do you do now after your gleaming aviary is finished and is ready for stock? Certainly your travels will have left an impression, but you may not have thought about which style of bird you want to breed. It is no use buying a selection of good birds. They have to be the right birds with the right faces. When you look at a person it is their face you look at first of all. The same applies to budgerigars.

Look at the Ideal and look for birds with the qualities that can push the budgerigar ahead of the Ideal. Some fanciers will possess birds that have some of those features. Concentrate on them and buy them or their older relatives which may be cheaper. Buy this bird with width, that bird with length, those with type and so on. Try to buy every feature that is needed in YOUR IDEAL. If one feature is missing then the house of cards will fall.

Spots are very important. You can breed outstanding birds, but if the spots are small the impact is lost. A bird without large spots is like a man in a suit without a tie. Both are unfinished. Learn the hereditary faults such as hinged tails and short masks. Think about buying some select three year old cocks that you have confirmed, bred well in their last year. They will go on to breed very good birds and the outlay will have been much less.

Always try to buy young hens initially, and subsequently breed your own, if at all possible. Everyone needs hens. Remember it is the hens that have a strong bearing on spots and it is the hens which give more problems than cocks when breeding.

Areas to Avoid

Birds at exhibitions possess, in general, one vital feature. It is called SWANK. Without it established in your stock from the start, you will not compete for the top awards.

What are the features that contribute to swank? Firstly, length has to be evident. With length in your birds you can create a smart bird with all the other features, but build up those features on a short bodied bird and all you create is a cobby bird, as it is termed, with which you can do very little. You must learn to appreciate the length of a bird’s body from the top of the wing butt to the perch. This is the feature the author missed for years and it is so important. It dictates the length of body and also the stance. Budgerigars with swank look down, not up. This is partly created by the head feather formation. Some birds stretch upwards and possess an aristocratic look. That’s swank! Avoid buying birds that lie across the perch thus reducing the length just referred to.

Avoid visually poor birds when you first buy, irrespective of the entreaties of the seller that, “it’s related to my Best in Show winner from my best line”.

Avoid purchasing birds from unhygienic aviaries. Birds often carry hidden diseases from such places.

Avoid fanciers who only have a few top quality birds with no depth of quality behind them. You want to buy from aviaries that possess large numbers of outstanding birds because you will want to buy from them again, in future years, to sustain that line.

Beware being sold birds that have had difficulty breeding; hence, purchase young untried hens! Ask the breeder to show you his/her breeding records before you make your final decision. The author has always had the practice, for first time buyers to his aviary, of offering to change any bird that doesn’t breed, provided the bird is returned fully fit. This applies only to the first visit. After that initial help, the purchaser is on his/her own. Other breeders criticise this as being too generous, on the grounds that the birds are often in unskilled hands. In practice, it works out at perhaps one bird a year being changed and it is an endorsement of your reputation at the same time. Look for such breeders.

Final Advice

A very sensible policy is to buy from two studs only. Remember that by buying all over the place you accumulate all manner of hidden faults as well as good visual features. Selecting two studs which possess the style of bird you want to breed, which could even be cross related in themselves, is perfect.

Keep the picture of the birds you want to breed uppermost in your mind at all times and don’t buy stock that doesn’t possess some of the details required to achieve your ambition.

When you acquire your initial birds, be patient with them. You are inexperienced, so accept that and remember livestock doesn’t always behave as you would wish it. If 75 per cent of them breed well, be pleased with that to begin with and learn from the habits of those who have misbehaved.

Reinhard Molkentin, the world famous German fancier now living in South Africa once said, “The outstanding fancier has a vision of a bird of the future. He/she can see special features and he/she selects birds with those vital feather features and puts them together.” Nothing has changed since then.

GSB: I have no doubts at all in my mind that there are specific birds in The Netherlands, Germany, Switzerland and South Africa that can beat the UK birds easily.

That is based on their top birds of course, but in all cases they have the depth of quality to be able to sell you top quality (at a price!) if you are willing to attack the hobby as you should. If you do not, then ask yourself, “Why am I in this hobby?”

If you want names then I think Jac Kuyten, from what I hear, has quality as well as Jo Mannes, Daniel Lütolf and Reinhard Molkentin in South Africa. Not only do they have the quality they are the right birds for the future.

In what way do you think they have influenced our UK stock so far?

GSB: There are a few of us who import and it is interesting that those who show have done well. Les Martin, Brian Sweeting, Roger Long and Phil Reaney are a few names as well as myself, where the quality has shot up since I ceased Budgerigar World ownership.

Demand is really heavy on an annual basis as it is known these breeders and myself have gone to the considerable expense and hassle to get such birds into the UK.

Have the overseas birds, with their style and type, spoilt the old British Show Birds in any way?

GSB: No, definitely not.

Just look at the young Skyblue cock shown by Les Martin at the Budgerigar Society Cup Show this year, which would, by popular acclaim had it not dropped a spot on the Thursday evening, have taken the top awards easily and which everyone was looking at throughout the show.

That bird has a Jo Mannes background as did a few other winning birds at Doncaster.

You have imported from Mannes, Molkentin and Lutolf. How have they influenced your birds?

GSB: I have partly answered this above, but there is no doubt that the fact that I crossed most of the imported birds bred in the second generation and their offspring into my own Moffat x Binks bloodline, has paid off handsomely.

My grey greens are really super and I have them in big numbers along with light greens and skyblues. Cinnamons have appeared and unlike a lot of breeders I welcome their appearance as they are so useful to retaining feather quality as well as the directional feather that is appearing all over the place.

How does a beginner, who has just bought an outstanding outcross, proceed to use it to best advantage?

GSB: Ideally he/she should try to buy two hens at the same time to run the cock to them. That is the shortcut to success and saving expense in the long run.

However few studs can afford to let you have more than one hen per cock. If the beginner has only the single cock to work with as his/her outcross then he/she should run it to the very best featured hens he/she has – and keep it going in different breeding cages for as long as it is looking 100% fit.

Remember that once you stop it breeding, it takes at least 3 months to recover full fitness – and in that time tragedy can strike. It does happen to the best birds!

Who had the most influence on you in your formative years?

GSB: Most fanciers will expect me to say Harry Bryan or Angela Moss and certainly they had wonderful birds, but when it comes to actual influence it has to be Ken Farmer, of Luton in Bedfordshire, who in his mind wanted budgerigar heads to be like Norwich Canary top ends.

Ken’s birds slowly began to acquire the frontal lift above the cere and I saw the first two magnificent light green cocks of his shown at the massive show at Southall in Middlesex. I still recall them and indeed exactly where they were placed in the hall – such was their impact.

If Ken were alive today, he would be delighted to see the directional feather and width that a relative few breeders have now put on their birds to create what I have termed as the “Buffalo Effect” line over the cere. Today the Farmer “Norwich Budgerigar” has been achieved.

You have been actively involved in the hobby in a countless number of ways in your 65 years of breeding since the age of 12. Can you describe the big forward leaps that changed our birds from pre-war pet standard to what is around today?

GSB: When I started in November 1945 there were few birds around except in the pet shops and I knew nothing at all about show points or anything really. I was raw in the extreme. There were no Beginner Classes – you started in Novice and then went straight to Champion.

Those birds were looked at by 1950 as having good heads in a few places and Harry Bryan held most of the aces. However, I have an Ideal Model produced by the Leamington Budgerigar Society dated 1958 which is in my display case at Tanglewood. You would laugh at it by comparison to standards today, but at the time it was “some budgie” that we could only marvel at.

It was Harry Bryan that, along with Farmer, started to look very carefully for any heads that others had that had longer feathers and some of them had been bred from the long-flighted birds that had emerged at the time. These two hunted high and low for anything that improved the top ends and they were the driving forces that achieved their object and made them the major breeders who were ahead of the rest.

Joe Collyer in Surrey was another. Collyer suddenly came out with a nest of four birds – three grey greens and a grey – of outstanding quality in the late 1950’s. Harry Bryan was after one immediately but Collyer would not sell to him. Harry, never to be outdone, sent Will Addey (the Budgerigar Society Secretary) down to Joe and he bought the best one for £250 – a massive price at the time.

Maurice Finey then bought another for £225 and bred 39 chicks from it in the first year by “running” it to many hens. He then sent 8 chicks in the following season to the big London and Southern Counties Show (2600 entries) and won from 1st to 5th in the grey green class – and 7th too! Unfortunately the best one was not placed and the judge was slaughtered on the day. Harry Bryan’s purchase was shown at The National exhibition and won Best in Show, but it never bred a chick!

The next big influence and credit goes to Reinhard Molkentin when he lived in Germany. He used his top birds to the tiny group of spangles that had been bought by Rolf Christen from Australia. The results were staggering, but that is where all the spangles we have today began.

Since then the next dramatic move arrived with the realisation that we all woke up to directional feather structure – the rest you know.

Today we seem to have more type/typy, medium feathered birds on the benches. If we continue on this road do you think we will lose ground in head and shoulder substance quality in the near future?

GSB: No doubt about it at all. We will do just that.

As I see it not enough breeders attack their hobby as they should. Look at the successful breeders. They eat, drink and sleep budgies as I have done all my life and they are ahead of the crowd.

Also we have some judges that do not attempt to breed the up to date budgerigars and so not having bred them they struggle to know what to do when such quality birds appear in front of them. A classic case was at Swindon Budgerigar Show recently, where a newly qualified judge made a basic error and wrong classed a massive normal grey cock in the young bird classes bred from a bird I had sold the previous season.

He did so stating “the bird was an adult” but without checking the blue ring it had – and without consulting his fellow judges. The owner was not happy to say the least, especially as that bird went on to win at the Budgerigar Show at Doncaster.

In your opinion how do we move forward with the hobby by bringing in new fanciers?

GSB: Easy. Wake up the Budgerigar Society to publicise the hobby. There has never been any serious forward planning and outside marketing to the general public except when I tried to reform the hobby in the early 1980’s with Budgerigar World.

All that six influential members of the council could do at that time was to attack me and try and discredit me as they stated, “I was trying to institute a takeover of the Budgerigar Society”. I laughed at the time and unfortunately still do periodically, as no businessman in his right mind would ever want to “take over the Budgerigar Society”.

Those six have since vanished, but the legacy they left for the future hobby was profound as we have lost so many people and few young people are being told that we actually exist!! If you do not tell the public what a great hobby this is, we are dead in the water. Today all the council are, unlike the earlier six, very nice people, but strive as I might, nothing happens – probably because I rocked the establishment in the 1980’s.

To conclude, I must in balance give credit where it is due.

The Budgerigar Society World Championships are a credit to the many volunteers who, like Geoff Capes, work hard for the benefit of others.

The Budgerigar Society magazine is also first class and my November / December issue is superbly presented. Strangely few people notice any praise that is given, only focusing on any criticism that is stated constructively in my case.

What in your opinion is the best advice you could give all of us in the hobby?

GSB: In a few words it is “Attack it”.

You have to sell, even from the beginner stage, 10 birds and buy one. The weakest link is to put it in your pocket so that when it comes to buying a £50+ bird – it isn’t there and the expenditure seems very great.

I came from an ordinary background, but with perseverance I got there. Had I not messed around with writing so much, including Best in Show, The Challenge and founding Budgerigar World Magazine, and not tried to improve the hobby for itself in the 1980’s, but had focused on the birds themselves, I would have got to the stage I am now so much quicker. But there are only 24 hours in a day!